Natural Flea-Busters Help Your Pet Enjoy Summer More

The spring and summer months are flea season. Fleas flourish in temperatures between 65 and 80 degrees, with humidity in the 75 to 85 percent range.
In order to successfully keep these parasites away from your yard, home and family members (both the two and four-legged kind), you have to attack the problem on several fronts.

Fleas have a four-stage life cycle, as follows:

• Stage 1 – Egg. Adult fleas lay eggs on your pet – from 20 to 28 a day. These eggs drop off your dog or cat and grow wherever they land, which is often on your furniture, carpets, throw rugs, and other flooring.
• Stage 2 – Larva. This is what the egg turns into, little worm-like creatures. Larva hatch from flea eggs.
• Stage 3 – Pupa. The larva forms a pupae, a cocoon of sorts, inside which it moves through additional growth stages that can take anywhere from about 10 days all the way up to 200 to complete.
• Stage 4 – Adult. Adult fleas are what the pupae evolve to and they’re what you see on your pet. They live on average about six weeks, but they can live a whole lot longer than that. The only way to remove adult fleas from their natural habitat (your dog or cat) is to kill them or pick them off.

Fleas reproduce at an incredible rate. Ten female fleas can produce over 250,000 more fleas in a single month.
Estimates are that for every adult flea on your pet, there are around 10 more wherever your pet spends time. That’s why you must eliminate not only the adults on your dog or cat, but the eggs, larva and pupa in your home, yard and your pet’s bedding.
The pupa stage is the most problematic because the cocoon is quite resistant to agents that can kill fleas in the other stages of the life cycle.
The only way to eliminate pupa is by vacuuming them up and disposing of your vacuum’s contents right away. Even if you manage to kill all the adults, eggs and larvae, if you don’t get rid of the pupae, you’ll have more fleas in short order as the adults hatch from the pupae.
It takes about 45 days of diligent effort to fully resolve a flea infestation.

Fleas Aren’t Attracted to Healthy Dogs and Cats

Parasites are drawn to the weakest of the species. So the first battle to be engaged in your war on fleas is insuring your pet’s health is optimum and her immune system is strong.
A few things to keep in mind:

• Feeding a high quality, species appropriate diet is the foundation for your pet’s good health.
• Regular exercise helps your pet stay at a healthy weight and keeps her joints strong and her muscles toned.
• Over-vaccinating your pet can devastate immune system functioning, as can the overuse of drugs like antibiotics and corticosteroids.

If you’re in the middle of a major flea infestation, resolve that first using the following information. Then go back and take steps to bring your pet’s overall health to an optimum level.

The Most Important Weapon in Your Arsenal: The Flea Comb

Flea combing is one of the safest and best methods for removing adult fleas from your pet.
Comb your dog or cat at least daily on a white or other light colored towel so you can see what you’re removing. Drop the combings into a bowl or other container of soapy water and flush it down the toilet when your combing session is over.
Even when you’re no longer seeing fleas or flea residue on your pet, it’s a good idea to continue to comb him daily until you’re sure his environment is completely flea free.
Bathe your pet frequently  while you’re fighting a flea infestation. Fleas are less attracted to clean animals and the shampoo will kill any fleas on your pet if the water doesn’t get them first. The good news is even parasites can drown! Your dog or cat will feel better after a soothing bath as well.

Vacuum, Vacuum, Vacuum

Vacuuming all the areas of your house your pet has access to is the best and safest way to control fleas in your home. And it’s a virtual necessity for removing fleas in various growth stages so they don’t reach adulthood.
You should vacuum carpet, rugs, bare floors, furniture, pillows, your pet’s bedding and even your own if your pet sleeps with you.
Break out the crevice tool or other attachment and vacuum along the baseboards and around corners and the edges of furniture. You’ll also need to get to hard-to-reach and dark places like under furniture and beds, and in closets.
Dispose of the contents of your vacuum immediately, away from your house.
If possible designate one sleeping area for your pet, preferably an area that will be convenient to clean. Flea accumulations are often in pet sleeping spaces, so if you can limit your dog or cat to one area, it should make things a bit easier for you.
Pet bedding should be vacuumed daily if possible, and removed and washed frequently during a flea infestation.
If you use diatomaceous earth on your flooring to kill fleas (more on this below), be careful not to overdo it, as it has been known to clog vacuum cleaners.

Treating Your Pet

It’s my firm belief that the dangers of chemical flea prevention products (sprays, powders, collars, dips, shampoos, pills, etc.) outweigh the benefits unless your pet’s health or comfort is being compromised.
Fortunately, with a little extra effort, it’s possible to keep your pet flea-free using safe, natural alternatives to “spot on” and similar types of toxic chemicals.
As  mentioned above, the flea comb is your number one weapon against the adult fleas on your pet that are busy making more fleas.
I also encourage you to work with a holistic veterinarian that can provide you with flea-fighting guidance as well as a number of different products for safe pest control.

Additional suggestions:

• Essential oil sprays containing lavender, peppermint, geranium, lemongrass or citronella can be very effective as parasite deterrents. You need to purchase a pre-blended product or work with an animal aromatherapist to make sure you’re using safe oils at the correct concentration. Dog and cat doses are different, and many cats are extremely sensitive to oils, so don’t guess.
• Fresh garlic can be given to dogs and cats to prevent internal as well as external parasites. Processed garlic has lost the quantity of allicin needed to repel pests. Work with your holistic vet to determine a safe amount for your pet’s body weight. You may have to start with considerably less than that amount if your kitty is finicky, then build up gradually to the recommended amount.
• Make sure your pet is getting B vitamins, preferably from natural sources like raw meat. If you want to use a supplement, a whole food B complex vitamin is a better choice than a synthetic variety. Brewer’s yeast (high in B vitamins) is often recommended to bolster vitamin B levels, but because many pets have allergies that are exacerbated by yeast, I don’t recommend using brewer’s yeast for allergic animals.
• You can put both food grade diatomaceous earth and cedar oil directly on your pet’s skin and coat. Follow label or package instructions on proper application. You can also add DE into your pet’s food.
• Ectopamine Spray is a relatively new all natural product made from essential oils that is working well for many pet owners.

10 Fun Facts About Catnip

By Dr. Becker

Most people owned by cats have heard of catnip and are aware many kitties go crazy for the stuff.

Many cat lovers don't really know what catnip is, though, or why their favorite feline seems to love it so

10 Things You Might Not Know About Catnip

1. Catnip is actually a perennial herb belonging to the mint family Nepeta cataria.
   The plants grow two to three feet tall and have stems with heart-shaped leaves.
   The tips of the stems sprout small white, blue, pink or lavender blooms.
   Catnip is native to Europe, Africa and Asia, was imported to the U.S., and now grows throughout North America.
2. It's the chemical nepetalactone in catnip that triggers a response in the brains of susceptible cats.
   The response seems to be a kind of euphoria, similar to how humans respond to hallucinogenic drugs.
   (Fortunately, catnip is neither harmful nor addictive for felines.)
   Your cat's reaction (if he has one) will depend on whether he sniffs or eats the herb.
   Sniffing usually produces a stimulant effect, while ingesting catnip has a sedative effect.
   In kitties sensitive to the chemical, the reaction to catnip can be really amazing to watch. They paw at it, rub against it, roll around on it, kick and slap at it. Some even dash about, meow, growl, purr, drool, and just generally go bonkers for a few minutes. And then suddenly they lose interest and wander off. A few hours later they can return to the catnip and go nuts all over again.
3. Not all cats are affected by catnip. Experts estimate about 50 to 75 percent have a reaction. The sensitivity to nepetalactone seems to be inherited. Most cats in Australia are not susceptible to catnip. Very young kittens (under two or three months) and senior cats are less likely to react. Even large cats like tigers, lions and leopards can inherit sensitivity to nepetalactone.
4. Catnip makes some cats aggressive rather than happily euphoric or pleasantly relaxed. If you have a multi-cat household, I recommend you introduce catnip to each cat individually to avoid any potential for fighting.
   It's also a good idea not to engage with your catnipped pet until you know what to expect in terms of a response.
5. Scientists have discovered nepetalactone is a very effective pest repellent against flies, mosquitoes, cockroaches and termites. In fact, it's about 10 times as effective as DEET. Unfortunately, nepetalactone loses its ability to repel bugs when applied to the skin.
6. Catnip is also used by humans (but not by pregnant women, please). When prepared as a tea or infusion, the nepetalactone acts as a mild sedative, which can be helpful in relieving nausea, headaches, and even toothaches. Enjoy a warm cup of catnip tea at night and it might even help with insomnia.
   Catnip in capsule form, available at health food stores, is also used to treat headaches and digestive upsets.
   Catnip can also be used topically for cuts by crushing and moistening fresh catnip leaves and applying the paste to the wound. It is also used as an herb for cooking.
7. Catnip is a cinch to grow from seed or a seedling, planted after the last freeze of the season. The plants need lots of room to grow and do very well in porous soil and full sunlight. When full grown, the cuttings should be hung upside down in a dark, dry, airy space to dry. The dried leaves can then be stored in airtight containers in the fridge.
8. Catnip can be used to entice your kitty to use her scratching post or the expensive pet bed you purchased that she wants nothing to do with. It can also be used to help an inactive housecat get some much-needed exercise.
9. Organic catnip (which I recommend) comes in a wide variety of forms including sprays, loose leaves, flowers and buds, pellets, dental chews, scratching pads, and catnip toys of every conceivable kind.
10. Some cat lovers are philosophically opposed to providing their pet with a substance that produces goofy or sleepy or seemingly out-of-control behavior. Some folks feel it is exploitive to get a cat 'high' on catnip. Certainly it's a matter of personal choice whether you offer catnip to your pet, but rest assured it is neither addictive nor harmful to kitties, and is an herb that naturally grows in the wild.

Cat-A'bout Single-Cat CatNip Plus Tub 60 grams by MiracleCorp/Gimborn

Sojos Certified Organic Catnip